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  • Change your own clutch..........

    Link to Original thread - https://forums.probetalk.com/showthr...p?t=1701166624

    I just PM'd this to mrduke to help him with his weekend coming up, figured it could go in here as well.:

    My best time is 1 hr 37 minutes

    OK, as in Spaceballs, here's the Short, short, short version:
    • jack up car
    • remove driver wheel/tire
    • begin drain on transmission plug - 23 mm.
    • remove two strut-to-hub 17mm bolts
    • remove abs sensor from hub (2) 12mm
    • remove crossmember (6) 17mm bolts
    • remove engine cradle (2) 17mm nuts, (2) 14mm nuts, (2) 17mm bolts, and the front motor mount thru bolt (17mm)
    • use chisel and hammer to pop axle from transmission. the hub will swing out far enough to pull the axle out of the transmission, barely.
    • remove the whole slave cylinder itself from transmission (2) 12mm
    • DO NOT OPEN/mess with the line (this way you won't have to rebleed it)
    • pop retailer clip from transmission bracket and lay this up and to the side
    • use the overflow as a hook for it to keep it up and out of the way
    • disconnect starter wire (12mm) and solenoid wire (male to female, squeeze and pull)
    • remove single 17mm nut on upper motor mount to free up big ground.
    • pull up wireharness out of the way to gain access to more bolts
    • remove single ground wire 10mm bolt, other 4wire ground wire 10mm bolt, the bracket they were attached to, and throw the bracket away.
    • weight reduction
    • remove 10mm bolt on rear motormount to transmission brace
    • remove 10mm bolt on main transmission ground wire (black w/ yellow stripe)
    • unplug VSS (grey plug, 2 wire, into top rear of trans vertically)
    • unplug PNP Switch (black 2 wire plug near fuel filter, comes up from underneath)
    • unplug reverse lights switch (2 wire white plug, under starter)
    • begin with removing transmission to engine 17mm bolts, 3 across the top, 2 down the front
    • remove inspection plate (3) 14mm bolts
    • remove shifterlinkage bar (12mm)
    • remove shifter stabilizer bar (14mm)
    • remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)
    • remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
    • remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
    • leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
    • remove 2 10mm nuts on fuel filter
    • remove 17mm bolt from lower leg of upper trans mount accessible now you have moved the fuel filter out of the way (just pop it over one stud to the left)
    • at this time wedge axle input shaft up into the loop of the lower fuel hose, it'll hold it there up and out of the way (trust me for later)
    • secure jack under the motor, use exhaust piping, it'll hold ....(or oil pan....it'll be fine)
    • MARK their orientation in the motor mount bracket (front to rear, the hole is slotted) first with a silver sharpie or something, then remove remaining 2 nuts and single 17mm bolt on upper transmission mount. marking them will help in alignment later for rear 3 17mm MM to MTX bolt install
    • transmission should sag down a bit, but not fall (remember 14mm bolt from above?)
    • get under transmission and remove 14mm bolt.
    • using bench press technique, grab starter with right hand and rear of trans (around the shifter linkage input) with left hand
    • slide transmission off motor....flathead screwdriver and wedge from earlier will help a stubborn contestant.


    do clutch replacement and FW? if applicable.

    MAKE SURE THE CLUTCH IS DEAD CENTER....use the alignment tool.

    Tricks on install:

    installation is reverse of removal but.....
    Note orientation on upper 2 MM bolts and 2 studs.

    use automotive lubricant on input shaft, teeth, and T.O. bearing shaft. hit the steel sleeves on the edge of the bell housing as well, to help it sink when you seat it.

    you didn't mess with the passenger side on purpose, because now you have a shaft that will help you guide the transmission back home.

    When you go to put it in, sink that shaft first, then play with the alignment on the input shaft.

    Careful, it can/will fall back off even if you think you got it on....so thread that 14 mm bolt back in when you can get it to line up to secure the transmission

    Oh, add fluid, pump clutch a few times first, and check your engagement before you get it down.
    For those that see better than read:

    good luck, that is the short, short, short, short, short, version. Fluffernutter

  • #2

    Raise and support vehicle on a stable work surface

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    remove driver wheel/tire

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    • begin drain on transmission plug - 23 mm.
    • remove two strut-to-hub 17mm bolts
    • remove abs sensor (if applicable) from hub (2) 12mm

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    • remove crossmember (6) 17mm bolts
    • remove engine cradle (2) 17mm nuts, (2) 14mm nuts, (2) 17mm bolts, and the front motor mount thru bolt (17mm)

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    use chisel and hammer to pop axle from transmission.

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    • the hub will swing out far enough to pull the axle out of the transmission, barely.

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    • remove the whole slave cylinder itself from transmission (2) 12mm
    • DO NOT OPEN/mess with the line (this way you won't have to rebleed it)
    • pop retailer clip from transmission bracket and lay this up and to the side
    • use the overflow as a hook for it to keep it up and out of the way

    Click image for larger version

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    • disconnect starter wire (12mm) and solenoid wire (male to female, squeeze and pull)
    • remove single 17mm nut on upper motor mount to free up big ground.
    • pull up wireharness out of the way to gain access to more bolts
    • remove single ground wire 10mm bolt, other 4wire ground wire 10mm bolt, the bracket they were attached to, and throw the bracket away.
    • weight reduction
    • remove 10mm bolt on rear motormount to transmission brace
    • remove 10mm bolt on main transmission ground wire (black w/ yellow stripe)
    • unplug VSS (grey plug, 2 wire, into top rear of trans vertically)
    • unplug PNP Switch (black 2 wire plug near fuel filter, comes up from underneath)

    Click image for larger version

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    • unplug reverse lights switch (2 wire white plug, under starter)
    • begin with removing transmission to engine 17mm bolts, 3 across the top, 2 down the front

    Click image for larger version

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    Comment


    • #3
      remove inspection plate (3) 14mm bolts

      Click image for larger version

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      • remove shifterlinkage bar (12mm)
      • remove shifter stabilizer bar (14mm)

      Click image for larger version

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      • remove 3 rear motormount to transmission 17mm bolts, Start on the TOP One and work down (trust me)

      Click image for larger version

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      • remove rear 17mm engine to transmission bolt.
      • remove front lower 17mm engine to transmission bolt., it is a stubby one, remember where it goes
      • leave in lower rear 14mm engine to transmission bolt (trust me)
      • remove 2 10mm nuts on fuel filter
      • remove 17mm bolt from lower leg of upper trans mount accessible now you have moved the fuel filter out of the way (just pop it over one stud to the left)

      Click image for larger version

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      • at this time wedge axle input shaft up into the loop of the lower fuel hose, it'll hold it there up and out of the way (trust me for later)
      • secure jack under the motor, use exhaust piping, it'll hold ....(or oil pan....it'll be fine)
      • MARK their orientation in the motor mount bracket (front to rear, the hole is slotted) first with a silver sharpie or something, then remove remaining 2 nuts and single 17mm bolt on upper transmission mount. marking them will help in alignment later for rear 3 17mm MM to MTX bolt install
      • transmission should sag down a bit, but not fall (remember 14mm bolt from above?)
      • get under transmission and remove 14mm bolt.

      Click image for larger version

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      using bench press technique, grab starter with right hand

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      and rear of trans (around the shifter linkage input) with left hand

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      • slide transmission off motor....flathead screwdriver and wedge from earlier will help a stubborn contestant.

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      Always keep your nuts organized ......

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      Comment


      • #4
        ::Clutch removal::

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        ::Flywheel removal::

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        ::Junk on the ground::

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        .
        .
        .
        .
        .
        .
        .It isn't always that easy however......
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        .
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        .


        For what it's worth, this car had aftermarket axles installed on it with the junk retaining cir clips on it. These in turn work their way sideways sometimes out of their groove and intermingle with the splines of the axle and differential. That in turn does not allow the satisfying pop when you attempt the axle removal from the transmission. And you NEVER FORCE anything with that process, lest you damage/crack the transmission casing or damage the axle seal in the process. Therefore this transmission's faulty axle retaining cir clip ailment inevitably caused me to remove the transmission with the driver axle still installed and remove the axle forcefully via the differential afterward:

        partially re secure the hub to the strut and use a 1/4 drive extension in the vented rotor to keep the assembly from rotating under force.

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        This is how it looks as you apply pressure to remove the axle nut

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        A swift blow to the back of your socket after a few revolutions will break the splines free without mushrooming the axle head

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        Lay the hub back out and remove the axle completely

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        Once out use a REAL Screwdriver or center punch to drive out the axle

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        Easy as can be

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        Comment

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